Tuesday March 13

I slept in today until six. My toughest lecture is today, but I think I have it under control. It was a cold sunny morning and the mountains were out. They were not as dramatic as those we saw flying in, but they were still pretty impressive.

We have a translator today. He is quite good and knows his H&H well. Sometimes I have to check my pride when I feel like he is embellishing my lecture. There was also a point where a question was asked and the only answers I could think of were use GIS or guess. My computer use has left me out of touch with the earlier methods still used in a place like this.

The class started out pretty rocky. One of the professors said it was all too complicated and we needed to spend some time describing what a model is. We did and he backed off. Later he told me he intends to start each day with a basic question that he feels the class needs. Now that I know that it will be easier to handle. It feels like a little bit of a power play, but I feel like my role as a cultural learner requires I submit to some of that.

Speaking of being a cultural learner. We gave them an hour for lunch yesterday. When just 4 people came back on time I figured that they were the only ones coming and started. Half an hour later the rest of the class streamed in. Today I asked if an hour is too short for lunch. They murmured and then one of the professors said “lunch and prayer.” 1:30 it is then…man did I feel like an infidel.

We were strongly advised not to eat lunch at the Ministry. This is really sad since the food the locals are eating looks fabulous. We are forced to pack cookies and fruit that we can scavenge at breakfast (yesterday I made a salami and Swiss sandwich). It is really too bad. John and I both forgot hand sanitizer too, so we are eating everything while holding them in napkins. It was particularly fun when he passed me a pretzel, both of us holding it in a napkin.

While on the topic of food it is pretty good here. There are several different places we eat. The CAFÉ at USAID, the Corps spread at Qualaa house, and this morning we visited the dining facility 30 yards from our house for the first time. The food is always good. I’ve had some very good kabobs and an eggplant/potato casserole that was surprisingly enjoyable. The breakfast spreads are bigger than a shonees. I feel like they cater to various US cultures. There is always southern food (Biscuits and gravy and grits which John appreciates). But the best part is the fresh fruit. Plenty every day and its good.

Speaking of potato above, whenever we get hassled (usually by strangers walking by us) for not speaking one of the languages (which happens a lot here and the ‘I’m only here for two weeks’ answer is not satisfying) John always shows off the one Pharsi word he does know: catchaloo or potato. It is such a fun word that it always makes the accuser laugh and become less aggressive.
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Tonight was the first night that we were not too exhausted to use the gym. It’s a really nice gym, about 200 yards from our house. I ran and lifted and feel much better. I really think the medicine (though taken semi-regularly) is helping with getting back in shape.

Even though I have a very small sample set (some where around 3) I think that today was one of the best possible days in Kabul. It wasn’t muddy, or hot, or cold, or dusty or foggy or smoggy. The mountains were out and snow capped. Really nice.

On the way back from the gym tonight I had the brief feeling that I had been here in a dream many years ago. Um…weird. When I was a charismatic I would have read something into it. Now I just write a couple sentences and move on.

Anyway, seeing the daily workings of USAID has really helped to demystify the ‘international development’ industry. It is true that they appear to have a sense of mission and purpose…but they also write reports, deal with annoying co-workers (possibly to a disproportionate degree) and just slog it out through the bureaucracy of multiple governments. Some could be in it for the money and adventure (which both can be plentiful if you play it right and are somewhat useful). Meanwhile, it has encouraged me regarding the usefulness of a professor of hydrology/hydraulics in a country like this. The engineers I am dealing with are really hungry for training, but are, for the most part, not well trained. Of course, I have also often felt that precisely what I am doing is what I should continue doing.